This weekend, Bernard and I went to visit a Fulbright colleague who teaches in Eger, Hungary. Eger is a breathtakingly beautiful little city at the foot of the Bukk Hills. It is famous for withstanding the Turks at a big battle in 1552, but by 1596, the Turks defeated the local Hungarians and occupied the city until the early 18th century. After their defeat, the city was rebuilt…the architecture is in the baroque style.
Our friend, Paul, was a great tour guide and took us to the two highest points in the city –we went to the fortress and up tothe observatory tower of the Lyceum which are across the old city from one another and then we went to the “city beneath the city”–the 140km of tunnels and wine cellars that form a network of caves stretching from beneath the bishop’s residence and Basilica all the way to the outskirts of downtown. After hours of tramping up and down the cobblestone streets, we were feeling pretty sore. In fact, Bernard was walking around like Quasimoto in the Hunchback of Notre Dame and I was feeling quite stiff too.
After some hesitation (and a lot of cajoling on my part), we decided to try the thermal baths. Hungary is renowned for its curative spas and mineral baths. Go anywhere in the country, even the most remote village, and you will find public bath complexes, some dating back to the Romans and the Turks. If you have already been, then you understand what I’m talking about. It was the most incredible, relaxing experience…
We started out in the indoor pool…it has a lazy river that whirls you around the perimeter of the pool. But we noticed some flaps leading outside. The weather was very cold,, but we decided to be brave…it’s easier when there is someone to share the adventure with.
It is hard to describe the sensation of floating in warm swirling water…the steam was rising from its surface and it smelled faintly sulfurous. The air temperature was probably around freezing, but as long as you kept your shoulders under the water, you were cozy. The minerals in the water make it feel as soft as silk. As we floated around, it began to snow! Indescribable!!!!
It was a typical Saturday afternoon in Hungary. Most shops close between 1 and 3 afternoon. There were young families, matrons, old married couples, buff young guys standing in the shallows discussing sports and old cronies huddled together over a floating chessboard, sweethearts sneaking a kiss under one of the waterfalls…teenagers…just another day taking the waters.
We walked back to our inn along a tree-lined path that follows a stream. The sound of the steaming water splashing out of the drain spouts accompanied us all the way home. So, anyone who is planning to come to Hungary for a visit, I have one word of advice: Bring your bathing suits!
Thanks for tuning in and best regards,
Margaret
PS: This is the only evidence I have that BOTH of us went in. The picture is not representative, because B isn’t smiling in the photo. It’s misleading, because he had a good time too, especially when he realized it wouldn’t be a big problem if he didn’t wear a speedo.
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