Bernard and I disagreed on what I should call this blog. He wanted to call it “stepping into history.” By the end of the post, perhaps you can decide which one of us was the most right (since neither one of us is wrong).
I don’t know quite how to describe Croatia or the Dalmatian coast. I already described the beauty of Zagreb…we enjoyed sitting in the outdoor cafes drinking a beer and people-watching. We did both of the recommended walking tours, one of “Old Zagreb” and the other “New”. The parks were amazing, as was the architecture. We spent the entire day outside because, as in most of Europe, the museums are closed on Mondays. The night train from Zagreb to Split was comfortable and uneventful.
When we stepped off the train at 6:55 in the morning, it was literally like stepping into a dream. And this feeling has remained with us during our entire stay here. I don’t know if it is the light…it is particularly bright and clear here on the Dalmation coast.
The sidewalks and plazas are wide and constructed of white limestone or marble; the stones trap and reflect the warmth of the sunshine–there is a sheen that accentuates the palm trees, the flowering shrubs, and of course, the glorious deep blue of the Adriatic. Because the sidewalks are so wide, the restaurant and cafes spill outside…wherever you go, you see locals and tourists alike, sitting back and relaxing, watching the world go by. I recently read in the IHT that more American cities are trying to replicate this experience…more and more sidewalk cafes have been licensed; with the proliferation of the patio heaters, this will be more viable in colder climates as well.
I have frequently commented on the long history of Hungary and even longer historical memory of Hungarians. There are many similarities with Croatia…it too has withstood more than a millennia of foreign invasions and Croatians have struggled to survive as a nation and as a culture. We drove to Trogir–it is a small coastal fortified city located about 35km outside of Split…it was settled by the Illyrians in the 6th century. The Cathedral of St. Lovro is a huge stone cathedral built between the 13th and 5th centuries on the foundations of an earlier Christian church. I looked up at the huge vaulted stone ceiling and I felt as if I had gone back in time…It was not ornate like many of the churches and cathedrals we have toured, but it was powerful in its stark simplicity. The city is a warren of narrow alleyways lined with shops, restaurants, apartments, and other businesses.
Later we took a ferry to Hvar Island and stayed one night in Hvar Town…again a beauty that is almost dreamlike in its quality. Perhaps after tossing and turning on our incredibly uncomfortable bed for two and half months, the comfortable beds in our hotels affected our senses. But it is more than that. We drove along the coastal road through the hills across Hvar Island–it’s like the Pacific Coast Highway in California, but with narrower, more pock-marked roads and fewer guardrails. We passed through countless vineyards, olive and citrus orchards, and small hamlets clinging to the cliffs. Then, after another ferry ride, we found ourselves in Dubrovnik, christened “the Pearl of the Adriatic” by Lord Byron. How do describe it…it was stepping both into a dream and into history.
Dubrovnik, too, was settled in the 7th century as its ancient citizens tried to fortify their town against the onslaught of the barbarians. It was a thriving trading center by the 12th century and then confronted the threat of Venice, the Papal States, the Hapsburgs, and Tito-style socialism. Like Trogir, it is a UNESCO-designated World Heritage site. Also like Trogir, it is a living museum. We visited museums, churches, and other historic sites, as well as walking the ancient walls surrounding the Old City–just like countless other tourists from all over the world. But, when we stepped into the St. Francis Church, it was filled with lines of Catholics waiting to make their confession with the Franciscan friars. We also saw kids coming home from school, women hanging out the laundry, the mailman on his route, and delivery and service people going about their daily work. The historic plazas were, like in the other cities we have visited in Croatia, filled with cafes and bars, but there were also local kids playing soccer. It was also bombarded repeatedly by the Serbs during the Civil War of 1991-1992. The Memorial to the Heroic Defenders of Dubrovnik had incredible evidence of the devastation of war in the middle of this tourist eden.
There is an ad for Croatia sponsored by the National Board of Tourism. Their slogan is “Croatia: How the Meditarrean Used to Be.” They’ve got it exactly right…and maybe, Bernard and I were both inaccurate. Perhaps a better title for today’s post is “Living History.” I leave you with this Dubrovnik sunset and our very best wishes for a joyous Easter.
Thanks for tuning in and best regards,
Marcsi
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